Frequently Asked Questions


FAQ_beautyshot

Here are some of the most common questions that we get from our customers.  If you have a question that isn't covered here, please contact our Customer Service Department.


For More Technical and Construction Information   Click Here




Search



EP Henry Pavers


Our pavers are the ideal product for freeze/thaw environments. Proper installation of the product results in a pavement that is rigid, yet flexible. The joints between pavers allow the walkway, driveway, patio, etc. to move without cracking. In addition, they can be "unzipped" to allow for repairs or access to utilities. Unlike asphalt, pavers are virtually maintenance-free. By definition, concrete pavers have a minimum compressive strength of 8,000 psi (about 3 times stronger than regular poured concrete) and a maximum water absorption rate of 5%.
It is the system that makes them interlocking concrete pavers, not necessarily the shape. When installed properly, the combination of the pavers, bedding sand, edge restraint and joint sand causes them to interlock, allowing them to work as a unified, flexible pavement.
Most EP Henry Pavers (other than Coventry® and Bullnose) are manufactured with the Durafacing™ process which concentrates an extra dosage of cement and pigment on the wear layer. You'll never wear through this layer over the lifetime of the installation. Our non-Durafaced pavers have pigment throughout.
As a rule of thumb, use a minimum of 3”-5” of base material for walkways, 6”-8” for patios, and 8”-12” for driveways. The sand setting bed should be 1” thick. One ton of modified stone or sand will cover 100 square feet at 2” thick. Using a 10' x 10' (100 square feet) patio as an example, you would need 1/2 ton of sand for the setting bed (1” thick) and 3 tons of modified stone for the base (6” thick). You'll need some additional sand (about 5%) or two bags of EP Henry PolySand for the joints between the pavers.
EP Henry recommends a separation fabric (e.g., Mirafi® ‘s 500X) under all paver installations. The fabric is laid on top of the compacted soil in the excavated area and keeps the aggregate base material from working its way into the soil subgrade. This is especially important where the soil contains a lot of clay. At a cost of pennies per square foot, the separation fabric provides an insurance policy against base failure.
Absolutely! For residential driveways, 8” to 12”of compacted base material is recommended. A standard 2-3/8”thick paver can be used for light vehicular (cars and pickup trucks) applications. A herringbone pattern is most suitable in these situations.
The material for the bedding layer should be coarse concrete sand. Do not use stone dust or screenings; they do not allow the pavers to "seat" properly and do not allow for drainage. The sand should be an even 1” thick layer. Do not compact the sand setting bed. Do not mix portland cement into the sand used for the setting bed or the joints between pavers. It defeats the flexibility of the system, and it cannot be cleaned off the surface of the pavers.
Patterned concrete pavements are merely slabs of concrete that are embossed with a pattern. Therefore, they are prone to the same problems with freeze/thaw cycles, namely cracking and spalling. We GUARANTEE that EP Henry Pavers won't crack or spall; you cannot obtain a similar guarantee for stamped concrete. Stamped concrete requires expansion joints every 10 feet or so, which are very distracting in some patterns. Also, unlike EP Henry Pavers, patterned concrete pavements don't allow access to underground utilities or the ability to make repairs. At virtually the same price per square foot installed, EP Henry Pavers are clearly a superior choice.
Sealers can offer three advantages: they help resist stains and may enhance the color or bind the sand in the joints to make it difficult for weeds to germinate. Sealers, however, are topical products and must be reapplied regularly (generally every 3-5 years). Only water-based sealers, or solvent based sealers with a low enough VOC rating, can be used in NJ and NYC.
Weeds and grass result from seeds or spores blowing into, and lodging in, the joint sand.This can be minimized by adding SandLock to your sand or by sealing the pavers or mixing a pre-emergent granular weed killer into the joint sand. If weeds do appear, a spot vegetation killer (such as Round-Up™) can be used and will not damage the pavers.
One of the advantages of pavers is that individual units can be removed and replaced in these situations. Remove the sand around the paver and then use two flat head screwdrivers to lift the paver out. Rocking the paver gently in a back-and-forth motion will facilitate removal.
Pavers can be plowed and shoveled just like asphalt or concrete pavements. In fact, the chamfered edges and joints around the pavers promote melting of snow and ice. A plow with a rubber edge on the blade is recommended. If you are plowing or using a snow blower do not use chains on the tires. Do not use sharp objects to chop ice as because that can damage the pavers. Sodium chloride (rock salt) will melt ice but can do harm to pavers, (and any concrete surface for that matter). Calcium chloride will remove snow and ice and is less harmful when melting snow and ice. Products that use Calcium Magnesium Acetate (CMA) such as EnvironMelt and Majestic Snow and Ice Melt are considered to be the most effective and least harmful deicers to use on your EP Henry paving stone installation.
While not the preferred method, pavers can be laid on top of existing concrete walkways. Two issues must be addressed. First, the grade will be raised by about 2 3/8" to 3" (the thickness of just the pavers or the pavers plus the bedding sand). This is particularly critical if any doorways are involved. Second, if the existing concrete slab should raise or drop with freeze/thaw conditions, then the pavers will do the same.
Try Clorox liquid bleach diluted in water (10 parts water to one part Clorox). Be careful not to get it on other plant material. Keep in mind that there is nothing that will keep it from growing back if it's in a shady, damp area. For a more permanent solution, you will need to correct the moisture and shade problems that are encouraging the moss or mold.
Not only do EP Henry Pavers make an attractive pool deck, but they also provide a slip-resistant walking surface. Pavers actually are better than poured concrete around pools from the standpoint that the joints will take on moisture and leave the pavement cooler under foot. Like all products that are used outdoors, lighter colors will tend to stay cooler as they reflect the sunlight. Furthermore, our Bullnose Pavers make a nice pool coping. Make sure the base material around the pool is well compacted before installing pavers. Safety covers can also be installed over pavers with the use of special anchors.
The proper sand for sweeping into the joints between pavers is either mason's sand or coarse washed concrete sand. Both of these have a larger grain size than play sand, which will tend to blow or wash out. If you wish to stabilize the sand in the joints between your pavers to prevent washout and to thwart weeds and insects, use either EP Henry's Polysand or Techni-Seal's Polymeric Sand. Both of these are available at many of our distributors.

If you are replacing existing joint sand with polymeric sand, you must carefully remove it to a depth that is 1"-1 1/2" from the surface of the pavers before reinstalling. Careful use of a pressure washer will achieve this; make sure you don't disturb the bedding sand. Without a sufficient amount of polymeric sand the cohesive strength needed to stabilize the sand joint will not be achieved. Make sure that you read and carefully follow all of the directions of the product before you start your project.
Yes. If your house has been constructed within the past 7 years, there is a good chance that a 4' x 4' zone surrounding the homes foundation may add to continual settlement of the existing soils or a new Hardscape installation. The area can be reinforced in a number of ways, but must be addressed prior to Hardscape construction beginning.
Yes, Our ECO Paver is an attractive, structural paving system designed to allow rainwater to recharge back to the ground rather than run off. With impervious coverage becoming an increasingly hot topic, EP Henry is proud to have been recognized by Building Green as a "Top-10" Green-Spec product for our ECO Paver. For more information about the ECO Paver, please go to the "Products" and/or "Technical and Construction Information" sections of our website and click on Environmental Paving Systems. There you will find specs, images, infiltration tests and installation guidelines for ECO Paver, and our other pervious pavement systems.
Pavers can be plowed and shoveled just like asphalt or concrete pavements. In fact, the chamfered edges and joints around the pavers promote melting of snow and ice. A plow with a rubber edge on the blade is recommended. If you are plowing or using a snow blower do not use chains on the tires. Do not use sharp objects to chop ice as because that can damage the pavers. Sodium chloride (rock salt) will melt ice but can do harm to pavers, (and any concrete surface for that matter). Calcium chloride will remove snow and ice and is less harmful when melting snow and ice. Products that use Calcium Magnesium Acetate (CMA) such as EnvironMelt and Majestic Snow and Ice Melt are considered to be the most effective and least harmful deicers to use on your EP Henry paving stone installation.


DevonStone™ Collection by EP Henry


It's probably efflorescence. This occurs when the natural salts in the raw materials (including sand, cement, and stone) are drawn to the surface by moisture. Efflorescence is common to all concrete and clay products, is completely natural and will disappear with time. There are efflorescence cleaners available that are specifically formulated for cleaning concrete. Most of these contain acid and detergents, and we do not recommend that they be used on DevonStone. To remove efflorescence from DevonStone, rub the surface with a dry terry cloth or towel. For environmental soils, clean DevonStone with warm water and a stiff nylon broom or brush. Never use a wire bruch on DevonStone. If a cleaning agent is required, try Simple Green. It is available at grocery and hardware stores.
It is not recommended to apply sealers to DevonStone. The tight surface of DevonStone can make it hard for sealers to effectively bond with the product. Additionally, sealers tend to reduce the slip-resistance performance of the DevonStone pavement.
Yes, you can, provided it's in good shape. Use a high strength, flexible concrete adhesive or a thin set bed (1/2" - 3/8") of mortar to adhere them to the concrete slab. All joints must be mortared (polymeric sand is not acceptable in these applications). Make sure you immediately clean any mortar residue off the DevonStone pavers, using a damp cloth. Do not acid wash DevonStone to remove excess mortar. Acid will etch the surface of the DevonStone. *If laid over concrete with expansion joints, DevonStone must be patterned to lay within the expansion joints. If units bridge the expansion joints, when they expand and contract as designed, it may cause the DevonStone units to crack.
DevonStone can be easily cut with any power saw with a diamond blade. Always wear protective glasses and a mask when cutting with a power saw. If using water during the cutting process, be sure to immediately clean any residue that may be left on the stone, or staining will result. Do not use a hammer and chisel to cut DevonStone.
No. DevonStone is not suitable for any vehicular application.
Absolutely, just install it the same way you would tile, with a thinset adhesive.
You can, but you must account for the difference in thickness. Most pavers are 2 3/8" or 3 1/8" thick; DevonStone is 1 5/8" thick. Do not attempt to compensate for the variability in thickness with the bedding material.
NO. Use of a pressure washer will etch the surface of DevonStone. Once that has occurred, there is no easy way to repair the damage. DevonStone is best cleaned with a stiff bristle broom and hot water. You can use an over the counter cleaning product called Simple Green which usually works well on environmental soils. Do not use acid based cleaners or a pressure washer with a tip on the end of the wand that produces a narrow spray to clean pavers, DevonStone, or Cast Veneer Stone. The blast of water from a pressure washer can be so powerful that it can etch the surface of concrete and other durable surfaces. If you plan to use a pressure washer, clean a small test area in a discreet location that is not readily visible. Hold the wand at least a foot away from the surface and use a tip that produces a spray that spreads to a 45 degree angle or more. Let it completely dry and examine it in good daylight to check for any possible cosmetic surface damage. Once the surface has been damaged it is very difficult or impossible to repair.
Use a plastic snow shovel, not a metal one. That will reduce the possibility of scratching or marring the surface. Do not use sharp objects to chop ice as they can damage the DevonStone. Sodium chloride (rock salt) is extremely harmful to DevonStone, and any concrete surface for that matter. Snow and ice melt products that contain the active ingredient Calcium Magnesium Acetate are the safest to use and are recommended for your DevonStone installation.


EP Henry Wall Systems


A compacted stone base is required for all segmental retaining walls. This varies in thickness from a minimum of 4” for our Garden Walls to a minimum of 6” for our larger wall systems. Generally, the higher the wall, the thicker the base. You do not have to dig down below the frost line.
Height limitations without Geogrid for all of our retaining wall products are listed within the catalog on the corresponding product pages. Designed and installed properly, segmental retaining walls can be built in excess of thirty feet high! Consult with a qualified contractor or engineer to see what may be required for your project.
Similar in concept to a "dead man" used in the construction of railroad tie walls, geogrid stabilizes the soil mass behind the retaining wall and ties the wall face to the earth being retained. Typically made of polyester or HDPE, Geogrids - such as Mirafi 3XT> - are open-celled, directional fabrics that are placed between the layers of block at different intervals. Geogrids are then laid out perpendicular to the wall face in the compacted soil behind the wall. The height of the wall being constructed, the soil properties, and any pressure on the wall (e.g., slopes, structures, paved areas) all affect the length and placement of the Geogrid. Additional information is available from EP Henry or a professional engineer.
The first 6”-12” behind the wall should be backfilled with 1/2”- 3/4” clean stone to help relieve any hydrostatic pressure that might build up. The area directly behind the stone should be compacted soil. Use the same stone to fill the cores of TerraceWall™ and StoneWall® SELECT™.
All EP Henry Retaining Wall products can be used to build steps. The wall units are used for the riser and the caps for the treads (Bullnose Pavers can also be used for treads). Make sure you pay attention to local codes that dictate the minimum step height, tread depth and hand rail requirements.
Due to their mortarless construction, segmental retaining walls will naturally "weep" to relieve any hydrostatic pressure that builds up behind the wall. As a rule of thumb, however, it's a good idea to use a drain tile directly behind the wall units at grade level for all wall applications.
Corner blocks with the rockface on two sides are available for the TerraceWall™, Mesa® Retaining Wall, Coventry® Wall and StoneWall® SELECT™ systems. They are used for either left- or right-hand corners and are set in place with concrete adhesive. Corner blocks can be made in the field for English GardenWall™ and NurseryStone© by knocking off one side with either a hammer and chisel or splitter.
One of the many advantages over a railroad tie wall is that walls, with either inside or outside curves, can be built with all EP Henry Wall Systems. Blocks with tapered sides are used for outside curves, and inside curves can be created by placing the front corners together and gapping the units in the back.
Use a high strength, flexible concrete adhesive, such as Paver Bond, to affix your wall cap.
No problem! EP Henry developed Double Sided Coventry® Wall to increase your creative options for walls that are functional and look great. Available in two heights and five lengths - like our original Coventry® Wall System - it’s perfect for wing walls, knee walls, sitting areas and more.
We recommend the use of a professional engineer on projects with taller walls (above 4’) or with unusual site conditions (steep slopes, parking lot or structure behind the wall). Local building codes may also necessitate the use of a professional engineer for walls above a certain height.

We can provide design charts and tables with generalized engineering solutions for some of our retaining wall systems. Each situation is unique, however, and specific evaluation will provide the most accurate solution.
Tiered walls are two or more walls placed in a multi-level arrangement. The second wall should be located behind the first wall at a distance of at least twice the height of the first wall under ideal soil conditions (e.g. if the front wall is 3’ high, the second wall should be at least 6’ behind it). See below for an example.


Purchasing, Pricing and Installation of EP Henry Products


We have 100 distributors from New York to Virginia and each has displays of our products so you can see how they look firsthand. They can also help you with layout assistance, material calculations and other ancillary products and tools that you might need for a successful installation. To locate a distributor, go to our Visit a Distributor page, input your zip code and the closest EP Henry Authorized Hardscaping Centers to you will be identified.
The final price of our products is determined by our independently owned Authorized Hardscaping Centers. Since they are independent businesses, prices may vary from one to the next. To locate a distributor, go to our Visit a Distributor page, input your zip code and the closest EP Henry Authorized Hardscaping Centers to you will be identified.
EP Henry does not sell directly to the general public. We have 100 distributors from New York to Virginia and each has displays of our products so you can see how they look firsthand. They can also help you with layout assistance, material calculations and other ancillary products and tools that you might need for a successful installation. To locate a distributor, go to our Find-a-Distributor page, input your zip code and the closest EP Henry Authorized Hardscaping Centers to you will be identified.
EP Henry is exclusively a manufacturer of unit concrete products and as such does not provide pricing or job estimates.

If you are a do-it-yourselfer looking for assistance, go to the Find-a-Distributor page, input your zip code and the closest EP Henry Authorized Hardscaping Centers to you will be identified.

If you are looking to have your project professionally installed, go to our Choose a Contractor page and request a Project Consultant who can help find an EP Henry Authorized Hardscaping Contractor in your area.
EP Henry is exclusively a manufacturer of unit concrete products and as such does not install. The best way for you to get an accurate idea of the cost of doing your Hardscaping project is to get a qualified contractor to take a look at your specific job site. To find a contractor closest to you, go to our Choose a Contractor page and request that one of our Project Consultants help you find one in your area.


Cleaning and Sealing


As a rule of thumb we suggest waiting 12-18 months. This allows most efflorescence to come out and weather away naturally. If you have a lot of rainfall in the spring, 12 months should suffice. If your installation was done in June and we have a dry summer, you should probably wait at least 18 months. The real test is a visual inspection of the pavers: if efflorescence is not that heavy or noticeable you can proceed to clean and seal.
Depending on the amount of stains you have and the sealer you choose, the average cost would be less than $1.00 per square foot if you do it yourself.
Your choice of sealer depends on the look you wish to achieve. All sealers will inhibit stain penetrations; some will provide a high sheen or gloss while others will only enhance the color and provide little to no sheen. Make sure that you ask your distributor to see samples of the sealers that have been applied to pavers before you make your decision.
For most residential jobs you will need a five gallon bucket, tape measure, magic marker, stiff handle nylon brush, slit foam roller and pan, garden hose and nozzle, protective eyewear, respirator and neoprene gloves.
You are probably referring to efflorescence, a natural and common occurrence in many concrete and clay brick products. Efflorescence is the result of naturally occurring mineral salts found in the materials used in the production of pavers or block and EP Henry accepts no liability for its occurrence. When pavers become wet and absorb moisture the mineral salts are dissolved and are drawn to the surface of the paver with the moisture as it evaporates. This is not a product defect or harmful to the pavers and will usually weather away with time. While we recommend that you wait 6 months to a year for it to dissipate, if you don't want to wait for it to weather away, Techni-Seal offers an excellent cleaning product to remove it. Never use Muriatic Acid to remove efflorescence or clean pavers. It is too harsh and will damage the surface or the pavers. Once the pavers are cleaned it is recommended that they be sealed.
To safely remove grease or oil stains from concrete pavers use a product specifically designed to do just that. An excellent product for this is Techni-Seal's Dirt and Grease Cleaner. It dissolves, dislodges, and encapsulates grease and oil so that it can be rinsed away. This is packaged in 2 quart containers and is available at most of our Authorized Hardscaping Centers.

If you want to seal your pavers to help prevent future staining, we recommend sealers from Techni-Seal and SureBond. Before sealing your pavers you should do a general cleaning of the entire surface to remove any soils or surface efflorescence. Techni-Seal General Cleaner and Efflorescence Remover is a great product for this purpose. A word of caution: make sure that the pavers are completely dry before applying the sealer.
Efflorescence is a whitish powder-like deposit, common on concrete and masonry products, which normally will disappear over time with weathering. Although it may present an aesthetic concern, efflorescence will not affect the structural performance of pavers or wall systems. Contact your EP Henry Hardscaping Center for additional information and a copy of the Interlocking Concrete Pavement Institute (ICPI) publication "Managing Efflorescence".



Live Chat

   

Click for a FREE Consultation!


Project Funding Call Out

2014 catalog