Frequently Asked Questions

Our pavers are the ideal product for freeze-thaw environments. Proper installation of the product results
in a pavement that is rigid, yet flexible. The joints between pavers allow the walkway, driveway, and
patio to move without cracking. In addition, they can be “unzipped” to allow for repairs or access to utilities. Unlike asphalt, pavers are very low-maintenance. By definition, concrete pavers have a minimum compressive strength of 8,000 PSI (about three times stronger than regular poured concrete) and a maximum water absorption rate of 5 percent.

It is the system that makes them interlocking concrete pavers, not necessarily the shape. When installed properly, the combination of the pavers, bedding sand, edge restraint, and joint sand causes them to interlock, allowing them to work as a unified, flexible pavement.

Durafacing is the trade name EP Henry uses for our process of creating what is known in the industry as a “face mix” paver. Durafacing is a sophisticated process, requiring a higher level of manufacturing equipment and skill, which produces an enhanced surface texture with exceptional strength. This technique came from Europe which is where most paver technology originated. Non- “face mix” manufacturers, who classify their products as “mono” or “one piece” pavers, counter with claims that “two piece” or “face mix” pavers will delaminate. This is simply not true and EP Henry supports this with our Limited Lifetime Warranty.

As a rule of thumb, use a minimum of 6″ of base material for walkways, 6″-8″ for patios, and 10″-12″ for driveways. The sand setting bed should be 1″ thick. One ton of modified stone or sand will cover 100 sf at 2″ thick. Using a 10’x10′ (100 sf) patio as an example, you would need 1⁄2 ton of sand for the setting bed (1″ thick) and three tons of modified stone for the base (6″ thick). You’ll need some additional sand (about 5 percent) or about two bags of Polymeric Sand for the joints between the pavers.

EP Henry recommends a geotextile separation fabric (e.g., Mirafi® 500x) under all paver installations. The fabric is laid on top of the compacted soil in the excavated area and keeps the aggregate base material from working its way into the soil subgrade. This is especially important where the soil contains a lot of clay. At a cost of pennies per square foot, the separation fabric provides an insurance policy against base failure.

Absolutely! For residential driveways, 10″-12″ of compacted dense graded aggregate base material is recommended. A standard 2 3/8″ thick paver can be used for light vehicular (cars and pickup trucks) applications. A Herringbone pattern is most suitable in these situations. Contact your local EP Henry Authorized Distributor® or EP Henry’s Technical Manager for questions on choosing the appropriate paver.

The material for the bedding layer should be coarse concrete sand. Do not use stone dust or screenings; they do not allow the pavers to “seat” properly and do not allow for drainage. The sand should be an even 1″ thick layer. Do not compact the sand setting bed. Do not mix portland cement into the sand used for the setting bed or the joints between pavers. It defeats the flexibility of the system, and it cannot be cleaned off the surface of the pavers.

Patterned concrete pavements are merely slabs of concrete that are embossed with a pattern. Therefore, they are prone to the same problems with freezethaw cycles, namely cracking. We guarantee that EP Henry Pavers won’t crack; you cannot obtain a similar guarantee for stamped concrete. Stamped concrete requires expansion joints every 10 feet or so, which are very distracting in some patterns. Also, unlike EP Henry Pavers, patterned concrete pavements don’t allow access to underground utilities or the ability to make repairs. At virtually the same price per square foot installed, EP Henry Pavers are clearly a superior choice.

Depending upon the sealers, they can offer three advantages: they help resist stains, enhance the color, and bind the sand in the joints to make it difficult for weeds to germinate. Sealers, however, are topical products and must be reapplied regularly (generally every 3-5 years). Sealers maybe water-based or solvent-based as long as they are low VOC and compliant with government regulations.

Weeds and grass result from seeds or spores blowing into, and lodging in, the joint sand. This can be minimized by using a Techniseal polymeric sand or by sealing the pavers with a joint stabilizing sealer or mixing a pre-emergent granular weedkiller in the joint sand. If weeds do appear, a spot vegetation killer (such as Round-Up™) can be used and will not damage the pavers.

One of the advantages of pavers is that individual units can be removed and replaced in these situations. Remove the sand around the paver and then use two flat head screwdrivers to lift the paver out. Rocking the paver gently in a back-and-forth motion will facilitate removal.

Not only do EP Henry Pavers make an attractive pool deck, but they also provide a slip-resistant walking surface. Pavers actually are better than poured concrete around pools from the standpoint that the joints will take on moisture and leave the pavement cooler under foot. Like all products that are used outdoors, lighter colors will tend to stay cooler as they reflect the sunlight. Furthermore, our Bullnose Pavers make a nice pool coping. Make sure the base material around the pool is well compacted before installing pavers. Safety covers can also be installed over pavers with the use of special anchors.

While no concrete product is truly de-icing salt proof, EP Henry Pavers – due to their high strength and low absorption rates – are more resistant to de-icing salts than concrete, asphalt and pavers that utilize inferior materials. However, misuse of de-icing products can, over time, lead to damage. EP Henry recommends The Interlocking Concrete Pavement Institute’s guidelines to limit exposure to de-icing materials:

  • Mix the salt with sand, which is visible and the traction can be felt underfoot
  • Follow the recommended application and don’t overapply the salt
  • Use deicing salt for melting ice, not for snow removal
  • Remove the ice once it’s loose to avoid salt buildup
  • Wash off the pavers in the spring, since the salt can continue to cause degradation even after the ice or snow has melted

For additional information, visit icpi.org.

While not the preferred method, pavers can be laid on top of existing concrete walkways. Two issues must be addressed. First, the grade will be raised by about 3″ (the thickness of the pavers plus the bedding sand). This is particularly critical if any doorways are involved. Second, if the existing concrete slab should raise or drop with freeze/thaw conditions, then the pavers will do the same.

Try Clorox® diluted in water (10 parts water to one part Clorox). Be careful not to get it on other plant material. Keep in mind that there is nothing that will keep it from growing back if it’s in a shady, damp area. For a more permanent solution, you will need to correct the moisture and shade problems that are encouraging the moss or mold.

You are probably referring to EFFLORESCENCE, a natural and common occurrence in concrete and brick products. Efflorescence is the result of natural salts in the materials used in production migrating to the surface of the pavers. This is not a defect nor harmful to the pavers, and will usually weather away with time. Although it is best to allow a year or more for efflorescence to weather away, if you don’t want to wait for it to weather away, Techniseal® offers an excellent cleaning product to remove it. Do not use efflorescence cleaners repeatedly. Once the pavers are cleaned, it is recommended that they be sealed.